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Thom Browne. New York Show - Women's Collection Autumn/Winter 2018/19 in Paris (with interview)

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Designer: thom brownelocation: in the rooms of the hôtel de ville in pairscollection: the second collection presented in paris for thom browne who previously showed in new york. he chose the gold of the hotel de ville in paris, illuminated by neon and dressed with white benches, with paintings presiding in the middle of the rooms. a collection which plays with volumes, oversized shapes, trompe l’oeil effects and beaded embroidery. a true work of couture and sculpture on the body, deconstruction and reconstruction around a primary material of grey flannel with several textural effects. the designer enjoys borrowing masculine fabrics and distorting them to produce his feminine wardrobe. a wardrobe feminized by beaded embroidery, corsets, ruché flowers, draping and a play on the falling of ribbons. the anatomy of the body is redefined. to note: for hairstyling the hair is either painted gold or the height inflated with the recognizable blue-white red logo of the american label. plus, the shoes with platform and bevelled heels. interview: it’s all about appreciating shapes, and all different shapes and sizes and it all being beautiful and basically playing with someone from the 18th century dreaming of what she would want to be like or dress like in the 21st century. i like to work with proportion and i like to play with the body but in very different ways and it was a study not only in flannel, because it was a big study in flannel but also in the shape for the body. but this collection was really playing with the fact that i’m known for grey flannel and using it in very different ways, in heavy ways and light ways so a lot of different ways. the handwork was very special in the collection it took, down to the last 5 minutes still sewing roses and pearls and it was a lot of work. i like really playing with different ideas. tt was based in a painting studio so i thought marble sculpture might be nice, and i love the idea of trompe l’oeil and so just a lot of different ideas that i’ve been playing with. music from the show (for use only in context of the show, under cover of the right to information)