If there is one thing to retain from five days of menswear collections in Paris, it should be Kim Jones’ last show after seven years as artistic director of menswear at Louis Vuitton and a finale that will go down in history with the presence of Jones’ friends and muses: Naomi Campbell & Kate Moss. With menswear there were pointed or even provocative references as was the case with Walter Van Beirendonck and his theme of fetishism, with even the word ‘pig’ written at Julien David and his masked men becoming dogs in their own habitat, or again at Rick Owens, where men are characterised by their peculiar individuality.Putting aside these details, the designers above all sought to transport us to poetic worlds through refined décor, as seen at Dries Van Noten and his colourful finale that contrasted against untreated concrete, the absolute beauty of a snowcapped landscape at Thom Browne and his seductive campers or the beautiful show from Pigalle, carried out entirely through dance and music. Without forgetting light, which became essential under a rainy Paris, used at Lanvin, Dior Homme or all fire and flame at Hermès. On the catwalk, we noticed two big trends, sportswear is celebrated more than ever with fluid materials and trainers for footwear (Valentino, Issey Miyake Men, Lanvin) and also a return to perfect taoiloring, made impeccable by all of these designers, notably Paul Smith who revisited his classics, Berluti who even dared powder pink or again Dior Homme, who proposed a new version of the Bar Jacket for men. Finally Men’s Fashion Week ends as always in Buzz Mode. With regards to celebrity appearances, the presence of new star Timothée Chalamet, and without forgetting Karl Lagerfeld’s new beard, coming to applaud the Dior menswear show, and finally the announcement of Hedi Slimane’s arrival at Céline. Music Bandit & Nikit / 2018
Best of the menswear shows in Paris : Kim Jones, provocative references, a play with light & Sportswear vs. Tailoring.
Copyright : Paris Modes Productions