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Dries Van Noten - Menswear Show Autumn/Winter 2015/16 in Paris with interview

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For his new masculine collection, dries van noten took us to the south of paris, into an industrial studio owned by ratp (the parisian transport company). between the former railway tracks on the ground and metallic beams, the belgian designer contrasts his wardrobe with plenty of poetry, love (featuring an acoustic version of the song “be my baby” by the ronettes) and exoticism. the silver embroidery and decorations are found on the coats, checkered shirts, and military parkas. the trousers become bermuda shorts and even kilts, with skirts made in velour, brocade, and thick cotton. the silk, quilted kimono jackets are adorned in warm colours. the smoking jacket in white, and also in black, is a nod to yves saint laurent, and makes its comeback. dries makes multiple references revolving around his love of mixing materials, by playing with superpositions, and by offering a new reinvented wardrobe each season. to note: the reflective strips on several parkas in reference to firemen uniforms and many reversible pieces. interview: dries van noten: in the collection i tried to show a little bit of everything, so there is a military side, an industrial side, there are work clothes, so there are fireman coats, there are all the elements, the workwear also, but also the mix with the ethnic elements, very embroidered, very decorated. for me, i really wanted this collection to put lots of elements, so also really to find similar things between the punk and the ethnic, the tuxedo, the military, really to find things that make a kind of connection. also lots of clothes which are reversible with a side that tells a story, but which the inside which tells a completely different story. with the kimono there is a boudoir side for the man, with this quilted effect on ethnic material, but which also gives a reference to ethnic clothes. the kilt is also in different materials, so there we have more military references with the idea of the desert, and also punk references but really very ethnic elements. the fluidity also creates a new silhouette which fascinates me. the white and black smoking jacket is a nod to saint laurent, so the classic, but now we have done the smoking for the new man.music from the show