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Viktor & Rolf Spring Summer Collection 2014 in Paris (with interview)

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The tuileries gardens house a strict setting; on an enormous wall, the words ‘viktor and rolf’ are graffitied. designers viktor horsting and rolf snoeren wanted to portray a sense of vigour across their interpretation of uniform. bi-material jackets appear, or even just one side and display several badges based upon the initials of the fashion house. a trouser-skirt is the key piece in the collection and is designed in materials which are simultaneously compact and fluid, moving in sync with the body. the rebellious touch is provided by the metallic embroidery, pins details and studs on dresses and white outfits. the tone remains neutral with white, marine blue, grey and black. the dutch duo commands their refined and precise vocabulary by adding to their world a touch of much appreciated humour. interview: viktor horsting & rolf snoeren ; we wanted to create a mix between something very rigorous and a rebel so we thought of a uniform but a personalised uniform with studs and pins, so every individual makes it her own. it’s the key piece of this collection. it’s a pair of pants, it’s not a skirt but it gives the silhouettes that a skirt can give so it’s a mix between something feminine and masculine. we executed it in quite compact fabrics to accentuate the sculptural silhouette. some pieces were half-skirt-half-jacket so there are a lot of deconstructed things also. music from the show